It’s August, and the salt is lining my eyebrows. My hair is heavy and tangled with seawater, but it’s a good day. We did a day trip to Šolta, wanting to get away from the rush and the noise for a while. Šolta is an island an hour away from Split, and it felt like a perfect day trip.
The ferries to the island are pretty frequent, so we drove to Split, grabbed all our beach bags, and were off to the port. You can take your car on the ferry, but we decided not to, since we planned to be on the beach and could easily hop on a bus if we really wanted to go around the island.
I have to admit, I wasn’t very enthusiastic about the trip since the heatwave is already killing me, and I’m annoyed at everything. And then I had a bad stomach ache (think: knives to my gut), so I was in a bad mood, already predicting how I’m gonna be pissed for the entire rest of the day.
I was still annoyed when we got to the port, and I hate being whiny when travelling because I don’t want to ruin it for everybody else, but I was on my last strength. We got coffee while waiting for the ferry, and I was trying to calm myself down.
The port is usually one of my favorite places, and one of the rare ones where I don’t mind the rush and the noise. It has that magical feeling. There’s a multilingual buzz around you, people coming and going, in that in-between space where nothing is permanent. I love to see different people zig-zagging around like bees, the sound of the luggage wheels on concrete, taxis and other drivers honking and shouting, children playing, dogs barking; I love it all. This time, I was a gremlin.
Soon it hit 9 a.m, and it didn’t take long before the port buzz got replaced by the sound of the swishing waves and children playing. As we were climbing the stairs to the ferry’s lounge, we saw the sign on the entrance indicating that the lounge is air-conditioned, and we didn’t need to hear more. We settled into a corner booth and left the mainland behind. The drive was a little under an hour, and we played Uno to pass the time. I’m not very good at it anyway, but this time, I was also distracted by the mesmerizing sun glitter over clear blue water.
Once we docked in Šolta, we headed straight to the beach. We could see it from the port. It was empty, had shade, and it was close by. The place we spent the day in is called Rogač. It’s a small place – a few stone houses, one cafe/bistro, one tiny gas station, and one bakery that closed soon after we got there in the morning. That’s about it. But it also had the best peace I’ve had in a while.
The water was amazing! I know Croatia has clean water, but Rogač is something else! It instantly fixed my mood. It was just the right temperature (wouldn’t even hurt if it were a bit lower). It is a pebble beach, which I prefer over the sand one because I don’t like it sticking to me. The part of the beach we were on doesn’t have big stones, so you can walk around and get in the water barefoot no problem. I was even comfortable, even though I took my glasses off while swimming and hence couldn’t see much.
My brother was diving and brought up a little seashell for me. He didn’t realize, though, that the shell was occupied. A little crab was inside, so we said hello and returned it to the sea. It was so cute!
Rogač is shaped like a letter U, so it looks like a little bay, and the beach we were on looks at the mainland in the distance. I could see airplanes landing at or taking off from the Split Airport. In the afternoon, the storm started forming over Split and the surrounding area. We watched as the strips of heavy rain hit the city, hoping it wouldn’t head to the sea and us. We were lucky, and soon the skies cleared completely.
It was very peaceful and relaxing, and we didn’t want to do much. We grabbed pizza to-go and ate it at the beach. That’s how much we liked it there and didn’t want to move. The pizza was delicious, by the way! It’s the only one in town, but honestly, they don’t need another! Also, the whole vibe in Rogač is so relaxing, laid-back, and quiet. There aren’t that many people, and everyone seems to know each other. It really has that laganini vibe.
I had time to swim, sunbathe, read, play cards, and journal. At one point, an olive leaf fell on my head, and best believe it also made it into my journal.
The ferry back was at 8 p.m (there are earlier ones, but we wanted to make the most of our day), and before leaving, we grabbed a drink at that same cafe. On the ride back, we opted for the sun deck and were just in time for a beautiful pink sunset over the sea. The wind gave us a nice relief and tangled the rest of my hair. By the end of the day, my glasses were dirty, my nose red, my hair salty and tangled, and my heart full. (I did get pissed off again later that night as I fought with my sister because abrupt plans and changes confuse me and stress me out, but I slept on it, so it’s all good now).
Anyway, if you ever find yourself in Split in summertime, don’t skip the surrounding islands, like Šolta. It would be your most relaxing and refreshing vacation ever! Forget the phone, forget the stress, just hop on that ferry!
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My Little Hawk 
we neee to go again asap!!🌊🐬🙏🏻🥹
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Yes!!!
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